Marine hose clamp guide.
At Santa Barbara Marine Diesel Mechanic, Servicing Channel Islands Harbor, Ventura Harbor & Santa Barbara Harbor, with all your hose clamp needs. First up is the Perforated 316 Stainless-Steel hose clamp. As respected as the original design may be, it isn’t without its flaws. Primary among these is the fact many hose clamps rely on a series of perforations. that are cut into the band, to form the screw threads. these perforations eliminate a significant portion of the bands cross section, weakening it and allowing it to elongate when tensioned. the elongation leads to micro-cracking, which in turn provides a toe hold for crevasse corrosion, a form of metal decay that is peculiar to stainless steel alloy. when hose clamp’s part they nearly always do so along these perforations, either as a result of overstress or corrosion or a combination of both. Additionally, the typical band itself is comparatively thin, which makes it relatively easy to strip the thread if the screw is over tightened. VETURA BOAT MECHANIC.
Heavy-Duty 316 Stainless-Steel Hose Clamps:
Solid-band all-stainless-steel hose clamps are a significant leap in quality and reliability over automotive and standard marine clamps. This clamp style replaces the band perforations with embossed rather than perforated threads, necessitating a thicker band, which resists elongation, cracking, and stripping. Embossed solid-band clamps are virtually immune to stripping even when overtightened, and because they are not perforated, that source of hose damage in standard clamps is also eliminated. The thicker bands of embossed clamps can also be manufactured with slightly upward rolled edges, which are gentler on the hose.
Constant Torque Hose Clamps:
My Favorite of all the hose clamps. Best bang for the buck, virtually all rubber hose compresses (cold flow) after installation of clamping device, resulting in an almost immediate torque loss that can exceed 80% of installation torque. Similarly, virtually all metal connections expand as a system heats up, and then contracts as the system cools. Conventional worm gear, T-bolt, and other clamps are passive, in that expansion or contraction of components cannot be compensated for without re-tightening or loosening the clamps.
This clamping system is an “active” clamping mechanism, which monitors and then compensates for the changes by actually changing diameter through a unique worm gear Belleville assembly.
Spring Loaded Constant Torque T-Bolt hose clamp:
- AUTO ADJUSTING DIAMETER – Automatically compensates for thermal expansion of hose or fitting connections.
- SPRING LOADED CONSTANT TORQUE – Provides a reliable and accurate constant tight fit without needing adjustments.
- SMOOTH INNER BAND – Protects hoses and prevents failures caused by cuts and gouges that typical hose clamps can leave behind.
- HEAVY DUTY – Superior welded construction, high strength stainless steel band, liner and one-piece trunnion.
- HEAVY EQUIPMENT APPLICATIONS – Ideal for Charge Air Cooling Systems and other applications for bus, truck and heavy-duty equipment.
T-Bolt hose clamp:
My least favorite hose clamp because i believe it pinches where the bolt is located and doesn’t give even torque across the surface of the clamp. The T-bolt is retained by the band by folding the band over and spot-welding it back to itself, creating a bight of metal, or an envelope of sorts to wrap around the T. While this yields a resilient retention method for the tightening mechanism, it also forms an area that can trap water, often leading to crevice corrosion. If used in routinely wet locations, such as shaft and rudder stuffing boxes, bilge pump plumbing, and other bilge applications.
Double T-Bolt Stainless Steel Hose Clamp:
Probably the king of hose clamps. Normally reserved for high pressure applications, A clamp that with its double band, sturdy bridge and massive trunnions is ready for the heavier work. The double super clamp ensures better distribution of the radial forces, so that sealing is achieved faster.
TIP: When you buy clamps, use a magnet to check both the clamp and the screw or gear housing. It won’t stick to good quality stainless.
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